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HOST:
Commentator Katherine Jacobsen spent a year in Russia, hoping to perfect the difficult language. On a weekend trip, she discovered that it wasn’t the language that would be the most difficult thing to understand.
REPORTER:
Our trip started at sunrise– I was heading out of Moscow with a dozen journalists I’d never met before. The door slid shut– we were off on an all-expenses paid tour of a Russian resort town.
In the van, we introduced ourselves,… two men, ten women in all. I gave the Russian version of my name, Katia, then I sat there, afraid to speak. I was so tired of being the American everywhere I went. No matter what I did, how good my accent was, or what clothes I wore, everyone could always tell that I was a foreigner. And I hated it.
Nearly five hours later, we arrived at the resort. We ate lunch, checked out the grounds and then prepared for the highlight of the trip– the banya.
A banya is a Russian sauna in the extreme. You alternate between a 200 degree steam room and jumping in an icy cold pool. Oh, and you’re naked most of the time.
It’s the ultimate Russian experience– they say that suffering makes you stronger, that it’s purifying… I wasn’t convinced.
Once we got there, we stripped– underwear, pants and tops of all sizes lined the room’s perimeter– we wrapped ourselves in white sheets and went in.
The steam seeped into my lungs and I started coughing. The other women started laughing.
One middle aged woman said: Oh, I remember my first banya trip when I was six… I hated it. But, in the end, the suffering feels kind of good, she said.
I looked at her quizzically.
It’s Russian, she said, you wouldn’t understand.
We sat and sweated– really sweated– thick beads of salty liquid poured out of my skin. Stories filled the banya– love, frustrations, hopes– and I began to forget that I was an outsider. Through the sheets, the sagging and svelte figures of strangers’ bodies around me started to feel familiar.
When I couldn’t take it anymore, I went outside and jumped into the pool.
I screamed as I plunged and gasped for air when I sprung to the surface. It was exhilarating, an electric shock running through my body.
Speaking Russian was no longer a problem– there were no words in English to describe what was going on…
After an hour, an obese woman in a muumuu came in with her husband. They were carrying a bucket with birch branches. We took turns going back into the banya to be beaten.
I was terrified and fumbled untying my sheet.
Don’t worry, I’ve seen it all, the old woman told me.
I lay down. The couple dipped their branches into boiling water, hitting us soft at first a ratatat, then harder, trashing. The old woman clucked at me as she hit my white Western skin.
Then, before I knew it, it was over.
The old woman asked me, what did our little American think? before she doused me in ice cold water.
I grinned stupidly, hyper aware of blood coursing through my veins. It felt… good.
As I tried to grab a towel, the old woman pushed me outside.
I protested. It was too cold on the street- and my thighs were too big, too American.
But the woman nudged me out the door.
This is Russia, she said.
As I felt the cool breeze on my naked skin and looked at a sky filled with a million stars, I felt surprisingly grounded. 5,000 miles from home, I felt like I belonged. I had sweated away the American, and, for a night, for a moment, became Russian.